Avalanche knowledge

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statement:
1. Compiled from Climbing magazine. The original author and publisher own the copyright and the compiler prohibits this Chinese translation for commercial purposes. The citations and reprints of other purposes are not prohibited.
2. Due to space and understanding, this compilation is not a complete translation of the original text.
3. Due to the limitations of my level, there must be omissions. With the development of climbing technology, some original dogmas may also change. Please criticize and correct me. I will not be responsible for the responsibilities arising from the practice of the content described in this article.

An avalanche is one of the most dangerous alpine disasters. Common self-rescue tools include beacons, probes, and shovels. (Annotation: A new type of avalanche can also increase the chances of a victim being rescued.)

The avalanche is deadly on the high mountain line. Climbers may be swept away, or caught in ice and snow (Annotation: Large avalanche is enough to cause death). The most effective tool is still to learn how to identify and avoid avalanche slopes. There are many technologies.

If possible, bring a beacon, probe, and shovel. Be sure to be familiar with using them. Once someone is buried, it may be the only chance to survive. (Annotation: Avalanche ribbon is also very useful)

Estimate possible snow conditions (stability) on the route. Tell people who have been there recently. If you have snowed recently, be careful! New snow increased the weight of the original snow layer, and connectivity was poor. In addition, if the temperature suddenly rises, or it may be sunny, it will also lead to melting of snow and poor connectivity. You should choose a route that is not dangerous for avalanches. If you have to, you should choose a cold, cloudy, below the freezing point of the weather, and there will be no snowfall for some time. For high mountain climbs in summer, you should set off between dawn and leave the steep slopes before the morning.

Observe the snow conditions. Including the recent avalanche traces, when the avalanche at the foot collapses, a “click” sound is heard. A drum-like sound indicates that there is a hole under the hard snow layer. Use a spade to dig down and look for a "snowboard" with a tendency to avalanche - a layer of hard snow above the pine snow.

Consider the slope of the line. A 30-degree snow bowl is more dangerous than a steep rock pillar. You can only guess snow conditions here. Will the avalanche fall to the head? Does the sunshine make the snow layer worse for a long time? If in doubt, don't go on. The right judgment is the only prevention!

If you have no choice but to pass through the suspicious slope, follow: Protect as much as possible. If the slope is too wide to be protected, the snow conditions should first be tested. Protected with a shadowed, sturdy anchor (such as a tree or stone), the tester walks up the slope and jumps to the steep part. Then unlock protection in a safe place, one quick pass at a time. Walking from heights reduces the risk of burying the snow from the top. Pay attention to each other's observations. Once an accident occurs, you can learn more about the location of some of the victims.

The stability of snow is a complex issue. Avalanche prevention and rescue courses should be systematically studied.

the second part

There are four main types of avalanches.

1. Snowboard Avalanche The unstable and deadly snowboard is usually located on an open slope of 30 to 45 degrees - a route that looks good. It is usually caused by the effect of body weight, giving off a "squeaky" sound while breaking. If you're lucky, it's happening under you, but it's very likely that it's broken around you and wrapped around the victim. Snowboard avalanches can also be caused by natural factors, sweeping thousands of feet, or even passing a flat course. The way to avoid it is to stay frozen for a few days after heavy snowfall (but dangerous skis may still exist for a long time). When walking, pay attention to the empty "click" sound, which is a signal that the snow layer is not strong.

2. Pine snow collapse is usually located on a steeper route, which can't be kept by the snowboard. This avalanche is predictable. The snow slope will collapse after it starts to snow. This kind of avalanche is small, but it is also very dangerous. The best defense is to leave this steep route once it looks like it is going to snow. If it is snowing in a gorge or on a steep slope, protect the sheltered area and climb to the side of the main passage where the snow flows.

3. Wet and snow slides are wet and heavy surface avalanches that occur after thaw in spring and summer or after the summer blizzard. It is relatively easy to predict that due to sunshine or temperatures above 0 degrees, the snow will warm up, and snow slopes of more than 30 degrees will generally occur. This may be due in particular to the fact that nighttime snow does not freeze. The decline in wet snow is usually caused by a climber, from a point down to a triangle fan. People below the general are swept away and are in even greater danger than those who cause an avalanche above them. To avoid falling wet snow, climb at night and leave the slope before morning. If you cross a suspicious slope, remember to protect the people below.

4. Ice collapses include the collapse of ice towers and ice walls, usually caused by hotter or glacial movements at noon. A large-scale snowboard avalanche that may cause the snow slope below, leading to a huge avalanche on the whole mountain. It is impossible to predict the time and scale of the ice collapse, but it can be predicted through long-term observations that the mountain is ice-collapsed. If you want to pass under an ice tower or a glacier that seems to be unstable, be quick! This route is extremely dangerous!

It takes years of practice to learn to identify avalanche routes. Even with experience, avalanche prediction is not accurate.


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