At present, multi-functional composite finishing has made textile products develop in a deep and high-grade direction, which can not only overcome the shortcomings of the textile itself, but also endow the textile with versatility. Multi-functional composite finishing is a technology that combines two or more functions into one textile to improve the grade and added value of the product. This technology has been used more and more in the finishing of cotton, wool, silk, chemical fiber, composite and blended cross-woven fabrics. For example: anti-wrinkle and iron-free / enzyme washing composite finishing, anti-wrinkle and iron-free / decontamination composite finishing, anti-wrinkle and iron-free / anti-stain color composite finishing, the fabric has added new functions on the basis of anti-wrinkle and iron-free Fiber with anti-ultraviolet and antibacterial function, can be used as swimwear, mountaineering clothes and T-shirt fabric; fiber with waterproof, moisture permeability, antibacterial function can be used in comfort underwear; with anti-ultraviolet, anti-infrared and antibacterial function (cool, antibacterial Type) fiber, can be used in high-performance sportswear, casual wear, etc. At the same time, the application of nano-materials to the composite finishing of pure cotton or cotton / chemical fiber blended fabrics with multiple functions is also a development trend in the future.

Multifunctional composite finishing technology for cotton fabric

With the improvement of formaldehyde limit standards for textiles in various countries, low-formaldehyde and formaldehyde-free finishing agents and finishing methods have always been the focus of research on textile anti-wrinkle finishing. Polycarboxylic acids represented by butane tetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) and citric acid (CA), as well as long-chain polycarboxylic acid systems are the most potential anti-wrinkle finishing agents to replace N-methylolamide compounds. This type of finishing agent does not contain formaldehyde and can achieve a good durable pressing (DP) rating. However, polycarboxylic acid finishing agents also have certain shortcomings, such as high catalyst prices; easy to pollute the environment; will cause the color change of certain sulfur dyes and reactive dyes; the residual carboxyl groups on the finishing products reduce the dyeing rate of anionic dyes , And the wet friction fastness of cationic dyeing is poor. The molecular structure of chitosan is similar to cellulose. It does not contain formaldehyde. It can be used as a permanent finishing agent to make the fabric resistant to washing and rubbing. It has a color fixing and reinforcing effect, improves the fastness of the fabric, reduces shrinkage, and makes The fabric has a smooth, clean and crisp appearance and feel. Chitosan also has broad-spectrum antibacterial properties, and has obvious inhibitory effects on the growth of various bacteria such as Staphylococcus aureus, E. coli, and Bacillus subtilis. Therefore, chitosan can also be used for antibacterial and mildew finishing of fabrics. Because the relative molecular weight of commercially available chitosan is relatively large, after fabrics are finished with chitosan, the elastic recovery angle does not increase much, and the hand feels hard, the cloth yellows, and the wettability decreases. After degradation of chitosan, the relative molecular weight becomes smaller, the penetrating power is enhanced, and the antibacterial performance is improved.

Wool fabric multi-functional composite finishing technology The directional friction effect caused by the wool scale layer structure makes the wool fabric feel great shrinkage when washed. The resin finishing is to deposit the polymer on the surface of the wool fiber and cover the scale layer to reduce the friction difference between the wool fiber and the reverse, so as to achieve the purpose of machine washable and shrink-proof. The role of resin can also make the fiber between the bonding points, to prevent the fiber to move to each other. The anti-shrinking agent that can achieve the machine washable standard by resin treatment alone, Bayer Synthappret BAP is the most widely used. In terms of resin structure, the role of the epoxy tree finger is not to change the surface structure of the wool fiber, but to cross-link with the scale, thereby wrapping the edge of the scale and obtaining a good anti-felting effect. Polyurethane resin is one of the most commonly used in anti-felting finishing. Foreign brands have BAP and WAR, but the price is expensive. The shrinkage of this heat-reactive polyurethane reduces the directional friction effect on the fiber surface and prevents the fibers from moving between each other. Using a separate resin treatment method, in line with IWS machine washable standards, can greatly improve the wear resistance and pilling of the fabric, improve the dimensional stability of the fabric, but the feel is poor.

Water-repellent and oil-repellent finishing use the characteristics of the fluoride surface to form a molecular barrier on the surface of the fabric to prevent the wetting of water and various oil stains and dirt. Even if water or oil stains stay on the surface of the fabric, they are liquid and very Easy to remove. A fluorine-based compound is used to form a thin film on the surface of the wool fabric, which changes the surface tension of the fabric, making it difficult for water and oil to wet on the surface, thereby achieving the effects of oil and water repellency. At the same time, these additives can reduce the surface specific resistance of the fabric, and thus have a certain antistatic and dustproof effect. At present, there are FC-5101 and FC-5102 produced by American 3M Company on the domestic market, which are suitable for high-grade woolen fabrics.

Real silk multifunctional composite finishing technology

In the past, the waterproof finishing of real silk used silicone-based waterproofing agent. Although its processing cost is low, the waterproof effect and durability are not good, and it does not have oil resistance. With the development of organic fluorine chemistry and the reduction of product costs, more and more organic fluorine resins have been used to organize the water and oil repellent functions of silk. After the organic silk resin finishes the silk, the hydrophobic and oleophobic fluoroalkyl groups are densely arranged on the fiber surface and point to the air layer, thus showing excellent water, oil and stain resistance. If mixed with Srires DINF cross-linking agent (containing isocyanate structure), N-methylol resin, melamine resin, it can obtain excellent durability of water and oil repellency, and at the same time obtain a variety of anti-wrinkle and anti-pilling properties Features.

Multifunctional composite finishing technology for chemical fiber fabrics

Wool-like fabrics: Wool-like fabrics containing organic conductive filaments do not exhibit active ash absorption, but if organic conductive wire inserts are spaced apart at large intervals, and in dry, dusty environments, grey bars are likely to appear. Hao Xinmin and others took the polyester filament wool-like military port as an example to study the multi-functional finishing technology of dust-proof, easy to decontaminate and anti-wrinkle on wool-like fabrics containing organic conductive filaments. The antistatic agent they use is PTM-01, whose chemical component is a compound of polyester polyether compound and high molecular hydrophilic polymer, and the molecule contains an ester structure similar to polyester. In the heat treatment process, one end of the antistatic agent molecule is embedded in the polyester molecule, forming a eutectic or eutectic bond with the polyester. In the same type of antistatic agent, its durability is better, especially comfortable for chemical fiber wool-like fabrics, which can reduce the surface resistance of the fabric by 5 orders of magnitude, giving the fabric good antifouling, easy decontamination and hydrophilic properties, making chemical fiber The fabric has good wearing comfort. The antistatic agent can effectively solve the local contamination of organic conductive fiber filaments, and has little effect on the color fastness of the finished product. PTM-01 is a non-ionic compound with good compatibility. It can be used in combination with other additives as needed. Usually according to the final soft and anti-wrinkle requirements, it can be combined with amino silicone oil or hydrophilic silicone to achieve multi-functional effect .

Suede-like suede: fine polyester fiber suede-like suede has hydrophobicity and certain lipophilicity, is easily contaminated with oil, and has static electricity, specific resistance is above 1014CΩ · m, friction voltage is above 1000V, and half-life can reach several Hours, and has a certain adsorption capacity for dry dirt. This is mainly because when the polyester fiber is rubbed, the free electrons on the surface continue to circulate through the object interface. For the poor conductor of electrons-polyester and polyester ultrafine fibers, due to their poor hygroscopicity and large specific surface area, it is very easy With static electricity. In order to make suede look like natural suede in terms of appearance and feel, it can be endowed with various functions such as oil repellency, water repellency, antifouling, antistatic and flame retardant to improve the added value of the product. The antistatic agent used should be compatible with other additives, especially flame retardants.

Chen Qiu et al. Used Ciba polytetrafluoroethylene (50-60g / L) for "three-proof" finishing. The technological process is: padding finishing liquid → pre-baking → setting (160-165 ℃, 30s) → finished product. After finishing, suede has good oil-repellent, water-repellent and anti-fouling functions. They use a durable antistatic agent (30g / L) and a combustion aid FRG-1 (150g / L), which are applied to the fiber surface to make it have a certain degree of water absorption, thereby playing an antistatic role, and at the same time has a good flame retardant Performance, its flame retardant, dripping and oxygen limit index all meet international standards.

Multifunctional composite finishing technology for blended, interwoven and composite fabrics

Silk / cotton interwoven (composite) silk fabric: Silk and cotton have good moisture absorption, breathability and wearing comfort, but their wrinkle resistance is poor. Yang Qifen and others used organic fluororesin to finish the silk / cotton interwoven (composite) silk fabric. The finishing agent used was SRIPROOFWORF. If the finishing agent is combined with SRIRES DINF crosslinking agent, or N-methylol resin and melamine resin, it can obtain excellent durable water and oil repellency, and at the same time obtain wrinkle resistance and anti-pilling property, and the fabric Color and breathability are basically unchanged. Organic fluororesin WORF and crosslinking agent DINF are used to finish silk / cotton composite silk interwoven silk. The concentration of base finishing agent, crosslinking agent and baking temperature have a great influence on the finishing effect. The multi-functional water-repellent and oil-repellent finishing process that has been tested and tested is: finishing agent concentration 40-45g / L, crosslinking agent concentration 5-6g / L, and baking temperature 165-170 ° C.

Canopy fabric: Ma Xiaoguang and others have adopted a composite finishing technology to develop a new multi-functional canopy fabric with anti-near-infrared detection function, which integrates waterproof, moisture-permeable, flame-retardant, oil-repellent and weather-resistant properties. Through a lot of experiments, they finally determined the color matching system of paint and dye. The visible near infrared reflection spectrum curve is very similar to chlorophyll. The difference is between the upper and lower allowable deviation limits. It has good near infrared reflection performance and can be used as an anti-near infrared. Detect special pigments. The waterproof agent is AG-710, which has good water-repellent properties, and can give the fabric a good feel, and can keep the fabric with good permeability and durability. The flame retardant is a special flame retardant for polyester-cotton fabric developed by Tianjin Polytechnic University, which has good compatibility with its finishing agent. The coating agent is a modified polyacrylate coating agent SPA-1 with moisture permeability. The technological process is: fabric → dyeing → padding flame retardant → drying → calendering → rolling → front coating → drying → rolling → instead coating → drying → padding waterproofing agent → drying → baking .

Polyester / cotton cut pile carpet: Researchers at the Southern Research Center of the United States used polycarboxylic acid anti-crease finishing agents, such as butanetetracarboxylic acid, citric acid, and maleic acid to treat flame retardant polyester / cotton cut pile carpet, but if the cut pile density is low The carpet will burn when lit. Cellulose fiber has better flame retardancy after esterification. The new method selects 5% -10% polycarboxylic acid and a suitable catalyst, such as sodium hypophosphite, sodium phosphate or a partially neutralized salt of phosphoric acid, and applies it to the carpet to achieve a satisfactory flame retardant effect. The study found that polyester-cotton cut pile carpet can obtain flame retardancy in a wide pH range; but under weak acid conditions, the carpet does not change color; butane tetracarboxylic acid has the best effect, but under suitable conditions, citric acid and Maleic acid also has good effects.

Protective clothing fabric: The most representative of the SARS protective clothing developed and put into production by the Military Equipment Research Institute of the General Logistics Department of the PLA Then it is made into coated laminated composite fabric, which has the functions of flame retardant, antistatic and sterilization.

The development of various functional polyurethanes is of great significance to improve fabric comfort and enhance fabric functionality. The waterproof permeability of polyurethane, but also can give other special functions to the fabric. For example, adding ceramic powder to improve the thermal performance of the fabric; ceramic also has the function of absorbing ammonia and hydrogen sulfide and other odors, after coating, can be made into deodorant waterproof and breathable fabric; adding chitin and cellulose powder, etc., Not only can improve the moisture permeability of the fabric, but also has functions such as insecticidal and sterilization; if adding nano-scale functional particles, it can give the fabric antibacterial, anti-UV and anti-counterfeiting and other composite functions.

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